Ha Long Bay

Hello all, sorry for the long lay off. I'm in Beijing after a whirlwind few days in Hong Kong. I have friends here and in HK so things have been really busy. I'd like to tell you more about HK and China, but my blog is on Vietnam, and we haven't finished the story about our trip there yet!

So, lucky for all the readers, Tony has been kind enough to send me some entries from back in Seattle. I know, not exactly per the "rules" of blogging, what with our time-delayed entries....but the story gets told. Here's Tony:


Since I last wrote, Becky and I went to Halong Bay on an overnight cruise on a traditional Vietnamese 'junk' boat. For the past 10+ years when Ive been thinking about coming back to Vietnam, seeing Halong Bay was my top priority. Needless to say, this was the highlight of the vacation part of our trip. Although I've never been there, I am guessing its probably a feeling like seeing the Grand Canyon the first time. No words can describe what this place is like. The bay was calm, the sun was warm and the wind was just right. We coast amongts nearly 2000 limestone monolithic karsts and isles, each one topped with thick jungle vegetation which rise spectacularly from the ocean. When you think you've seen them all, you look ahead or to the side or back and see more and more and more of them. Our trip was enlightened by stopping at a fishing village where over 500 people live in small coves spread about in this community. I even found a Husky fan in the village-our canoe's navigator, a cute little 18 yr old girl who likely will develop osteoarthritis of her shoulder and elbow by the time she's 30. We were served wonderful meals, got to explore the caves and even kayaked for an hour. It was truly breathtaking. It is so wonderful, that it is currently ranked #2 in the New 7 Wonders of the World ranking (http://www.new7wonders.com/nature/en/liveranking/). Any trip to Southeast Asia, would not be complete if you did not see this wonder. After a crazy 3.5 hour ride, in a van driven by Dale Earnhardt Jr's 115 lb Vietnamese brother, we were just thankful we were still alive and back in Hanoi. This guy passed over 100 cars in the oncoming lane, many times around a corner as either a semi truck/tour bus/motorbike/herd of cows (no joke) came within inches of slamming us. Our hotel bed and a lukewarm shower with poor water pressure was an amenity we were happy to have. We got to say bye to Paul and Renee as they prepared for their trip to Hong Kong. Our adventure with them in Vietnam coming to an end. Many thanks to Paul, Ca Tran, VNAH non profit and especially Drs. Thanh and Khoa for their organizing and hospitality during our time together in Vietnam. Becky and I did our best at shopping where everyone tells you, you don't pay full price. We got some gifts for ourselves and family/friends back home. Haggling is always interesting-when you deal in Dong currency you have to do these calculations in your head in thousands. When I haggled a lady down another ten thousand dong, I had to laugh since that calculated to about 66 cents. Oh well, the haggling was necessary since we literally ran out of money. Becky's ATM did not work our final night there and we only had the money we brought in to the country. We have to save a few bucks for final tipping at hotel and our trip home.

Hanoi

Sorry, I skipped a day on the blog. Things have been hectic since getting into Hanoi. This city is crazy! So many people. So many scooters. So much shopping. So much noise. So much smog....you get the point.

Anyway, I feel like I just smoked 2 packs of cigarettes. My lungs are burning, my head hurts, and I just took my third shower. So, no bloggin' for me...I'm off to bed. Luckily, Tony volunteered to do the honors today. Here's his thoughts:

We just completed our second night here in Hanoi. There is a very warm and charming feel to this hustling city with a lot of history and urban beauty. However, all that is really hard to enjoy due to one major factor-pollution. Especially the horrible exhaust coming out of the hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of motorbike/scooters. I can see they don't have a biannual 'emissions' test like our state DMV mandates. Being a kid from the Seattle area-I would say I live in one of the cleanest urban areas. This town would easily be the smoggiest place I ve ever visited. Its so bad, we purposely took time to rest in our hotel during the day b/c its the busiest and most motorbike congested. Hanoi makes DaNang motorbike riders look like senior citizens in Volvos (no offense Ballard) and their air quality a Utopia.

They need like 100 air purifiers on every block. Enough said of the pollution (but I do have to say that Frommer's travel book doesn't say anything about the pollution). Last night we laid low and did some shopping and sat on a 4th floor restaurant's balcony. Took the sights from Hoan Kiem Lake and the lights of all the stores and the motorbike/cars. It was our first time really walking around in any city since we've been in Vietnam. The motorbikes again spoil our enjoyment as everyone parks on the damn sidewalk. There is literally no room their that we are often forced onto the street in many cases within inches of a motorbike, car, bicycle, and rickshaw. We learned quickly that when you cross the street, you always commit to what route you're taking and maintain your pace and let the riders/drivers maneuver around you. If you make any sudden stops or speed up too quickly, you've ruined the mutual agreement between riders and pedestrians and you'll get slammed.

Today, we paid our respects at the temple that is on an island in the Lake. We saw the morning groups of people doing tai chi, praying sessions and just walking around. I had some native come up to me, near a statue, and asked if I could be in a picture with him. No reason, he just asked, his friend quickly snapped and he was off. We then went to Haolo Prison (Hanoi Hilton during the war) and toured its concrete grounds and saw pictures of old prisoners, which included John McCain. They also had his flight gear, uniform and parachute displayed. After that Paul and I toured what was the messiest and craziest 'market' Ive ever seen. Paul could not haggle with this old lady for a deal on a duffel bag. She drove a tough bargain. More walking around in smog and then finally a dinner on another balcony where we had to battle the smog on the outside and the cigarette smoke on the inside. Im now packing for our overnighter to Halong Bay-this will be a much needed rest as it is supposed to really a Utopia in its sights but we're more hoping for fresher air. Cheers.--Tony Dao

(This is McCain's flight suit that he was captured in. The photos are of the "Hanoi Hilton" prison where he was kept)

Day 4 (part 2)

Good Morning! Well, it's actually day 5 and our last day here in Danang. There is a steady downpour outside as we are on the tail-end of monsoon season. We have a noon flight to Hanoi, which I am very excited to go see as I have never been there. We had originally planned on squeezing in another teaching seminar this morning. But, the week was long and productive, so all parties involved decided that another session was not necessary. I think that turned out to be a great idea, as it gave our participants from the mountain regions a chance to get a headstart on their long trips home. For us, a chance to enjoy sleeping in (though Tony and I woke up early so we could enjoy the breakfast buffett for 2-hrs!), and pack for our flights.

As for our last night in Danang, we had a realxing dinner outdoors with the waves crashing in the background. After, we went to the bar to enjoy the coverband. Unfortunately they replaced last years Fillipino cover-band with a bad vietnamese version (sorry Scott and Kim, you would have been sorely dissapointed). It was their first week, they didn't know a single Journey or Bon Jovi song, and couldn't stay in key. Trust me, I noted this in the hotel satification survey!
Well, it's pouring rain out. I'm going to put on my rain gear and attempt to ride my bike to the marble mountains...So more photos, and here are some thoughts from Renee:

Our last and final day working with the VNAH on this trip began with a warm bowl of breakfast pho at the hotel. We were then off to the rehab center for a wrap up training session and more Vietnamese cuisine at our good-bye celebration at the hospital.

We then proceeded with our film crew into the vans for what would be a bumpy ride into the rural areas of Danang to see two patients. The first home was almost completely surrounded by rice paddies and, as we approached this patients home, we could hear traditional Vietnamese music coming from a mourning ceremony of a death of another neighbor. Apparently, this is how the Vietnamese in this area honor the deceased but for me it was clearly setting the tone for what we be a very difficult encounter. The patient we interacted with had no response to us and remains an extremely emaciated 15 year old girl with the most severe cerebral palsy we have seen so far. The family, beyond friendly and warm looking to us for any advice we could offer. We did our best to take as much information as we could from this and gave of recommendations.

On to the next patient.....I am happy to say this intake was much easier, as this 48 year old man had been receiving his therapy and equipment from the VNAH. He was functioning at a high level in his community even working as an art instructor.. It was a happy ended to what has been a very interesting and challenging week. Evidence to all of us that this program at the VNAH works.

As a nurse and public health clinician, I have seen a lot of hopelessness and despair but the situation for the handicap in Vietnam needs all of our attention. I hope to do more to help once I return to DC. I would like to thank everyone involved with the VNAH for the opportunity to met and understand the important work you are doing. The people I have met have been both informative and kind. It is my first time in an asian country and I am very impressed with the culture and the friendliness of the people. I am honored and blessed to have had this opportunity. --Cam on! (Renee Laughlin)

Yes, the photo is me eating pizza "asian" style (no, I didn't order it, or actually eat it. We won't name names)
...OK OFF TO HANOI!

Day 4 in Vietnam (part 1)

Ok, I'm starving and we just finished up our last day of work here (so we're probably going to get some drinks and enjoy the Filipino cover band at the hotel bar). But, I didn't want to go with putting something into our blog. I've also asked Becky and Renee to send me some of their thoughts to put in the blog.
I'll be typing more. Here are some photos. All in all, it was an AMAZING day. We walked through rice fields to visit patients. Did interviews for HD Net's World Report (hi Kira), and Vietnam's national news. The hospital threw us a very moving going away lunch (and in asian tradition, there was way to much food). It been great to hear from all of you. And getting in touch with old friends keeping tabs on us on facebook.

Ok, time to eat. Enjoy the photos. More to come!

Day 3 in Vietnam--Outreach Day!

So, i'm too tired to blog toady. So Tony'g going to give his thoughts. It was a very hectic day today. We did our usual morning in-services, followed by a treaty signing at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, followed by rural outreach....All the while being traieded by film crew from HD net.

Here's tony,

Hi to everyone in Seattle. Its been a mixture of feelings since Ive come home to Vietnam for the first time: anxious, nervous, excitement, educational, fun,relaxing but also very mentally and physically draining. I was just excited having all these new experiences: seeing my country of origin and their countrymen ("my people"), the massive mopeds and the inability for anyone to understand 'merge', 'yield' or 'right of way', the beaches, the jungle and vegetation. Also, its exciting to see and hear the people I meet seem very proud of how I have done outside, in America. The bus boy, the bell man and the councilman for foreign affairs all "thanked me" for returning home. My whole life Ive heard in America "he doesnt really look Vietnamese" but instead, here, I hear them saying "I see that he is Americanized but I can tell he's from Vietnam". They are also surprised when I tell them I was born in Saigon-the younger generation has only known of this place as Ho Chi Minh. So that makes me feel a little bit better b/c Im taking it as a compliment that I dont look that old (those who are elder and many countrymen still refer it to Saigon). By the way, all the Vietnamese men, LOVE my wife Becky. She's getting "Hello", "Hello missus" and smiles and laughs everywhere she goes. Wouldn't you just be memorized by a hot blond, green eyed girl coming your way.

Anyway, after a few days of lectures and presetations/labs and splinting we went out to the rural community where we treated in very very very poor areas. We went to two families homes to observe their disabled children. This really hit me hard. I have worked in the trauma arena in Seattle/King county for many years and have seen many terrible accidents, injuries and deaths. All of these past experiences at Harborview Medical Ctr, although difficult, were rewarding and I have learned from it. However these home visits did-shall we say 'hit home'. The first house we visited had 2 boys: 15 and 8. When looking at them you would have guessed they were 9 and 4. Both had NEVER walked before in their lives. They mobilized by sitting in 'Indian style' and shuffling on their hands, if not dragging. We were all thinking they had tight tight knee contractures, however were quite surprised to see they had little tone and somewhat flexible. I picked the first one up and his legs came down and were able to extend. He did not follow commands consistently but with visual and tactile cues began initiating steps, though needed MAX Assist (theres the OT in me) for trunk stability. When placed against the seat of a chair-he was able to maintain trunk stability and just stand there. This in itself was something more than his mother has ever seen. We concluded that this boy's cognition and his growing milestones never developed and given the limited resources they had in this country, his mother never knew what is capable. So she likely just accepted that this was how her two boys were going to live. whats further heartbreaking is she has two girls who are 'normal'. If this mother would have the therapy and medical resources we have in America these children would have a much better quality of life and both likely could have walked. Thats whats so heartbreaking here-the limited resources. Its what you see and feel right away when you see the poverty here. During this time and the next house I had to take a step back a few times to take a deep breath and look composed as I shed some tears. I could write for hours re: his brother and the next child but would take too long. I'd rather give folks a take home message for my friends back in USA. For those ever down on your luck, worried about the stock market, depreciation of your home, being stuck in traffic or just having a pissy day (I know this will sound cliche)-be very thankful you have a toilet, running water, a gas/electric stove, heater, carpet whatever I m sure you have as a possession it is likely one hundred to one million more times what these people have. I told Becky yesterday that I do feel I am the luckiest man alive. And when I get home, I m going to give my mom and dad the biggest hug ever. Im so appreciative of their sacrifices and what they did to get our family of 7 where we are now. Thanks for reading. Best, Tony

--

Day 3 in Vietnam

Finally a sunny day! I knew that this time of the year wasn't peak tourist season in Vietnam, but no one mentioned that it was also the tail end of monsoon season.

Anyway, today started off early. We were at breakfast at 6:30 AM, and our driver picked us up at 7:30 AM. By 8AM, we were busy teaching and working with patients.

Everyone worked hard well past lunch. All the Vietnamese health care workers seemed very interested and excited to learn. One of my big concerns prior to the trip was how much Tony, Becky and Renee would enjoy the experience. We all know how valuable our 3-4 weeks of vacation time is in the U.S. So, asking people to give up a week, volunteer their time, and do it simply for the satisfaction of knowing that you're helping someone less fortunate than yourself; isn't the easiest thing to ask of your friends. Volunteering some pro-bono time at the hospital or in a local community clinic is one thing. Flying half-way around the world, working with people you can barely communicate with, and having the constant fear that you might at any moment have diarrhea from something you ate; can rattle and frustrate even the most caring health care provider. However, after seeing everyone in action for a second day in a row, more relaxed, and even more enthusiastic than ever; I know we've got a great team here!
Anyway, i'm getting sleepy, so enjoy the photos. They include us half awake in the van, some spur of the moment shopping, the beautiful pool and beach at our resort (which we only got to spend an hour at), some sights from dinner out with people from the non-profit and hospital.
Tomorrow...a jam packed day. Film crew will be following us, so we're going to cram in as much as possible. In the line-up: seminar, working with patients, a ceremony and lunch to make official our partnership with the local government, and going to do some rural outreach work and research.

Day 2 in Vietnam

Well, it was an exhausting day at the hospital. All in all, things went very well. We all woke up early due to jetlag; but I don't think anyone was too upset, as it gave us the opportunity to enjoy the amazing breakfast buffet at the resort. I think Tony had 3 bowls of Pho, I had two, Renee had one. We also enjoyed all the fresh tropical fruit, and various Vietnamese treats. Becky had an omelet, yogurt and cereal (Unlike her taste in men, I think she secretly fears Asian food).

Arriving at the hospital, we were ushered into the new rehabilitation center. What a site! Just a year ago, we were planning the build. Now, a full working rehabilitation center, complete with a large gym with two sets of parallel bars. There were separate rooms for hydrotherapy, diathermy, electrical stimulation, and private treatment. Upstairs, was a VNAH office and meeting rooms.
As they ushered us into the conference room, we were greated by a packed house of over 50 doctors, techs, nurses, and therapists. Also on-hand was Vietnam TV (VTV). Seems that our work was of enough public interest to make the news (that 2 years in a row!)
After some welcoming speeches, and my nerve-racking powerpoint lecture, we proceeded down to the gym to get down and dirty. Our job, evaluate and screen 2o patients to decided on a handful that we would treat during our week-long workshop.
I did not anticipate this as I thought they had already picked out 2-3 patients for us to work with. I panicked for a moment; and Becky and Tony stood by, not really sure what was going on. Luckily, instinct kicked in. First Becky, then the rest of us, jumped in. Questions and discussions were flying left and right. What I originally planned as an hour to tour the facility and observe some patients, quickly turned into 3 hours of patient evaluation and discussion of plans of care. At hour 2, some of us started feeling a bit faint (some how, we all forgot to eat lunch).
Oh yeah, I know I haven't mentioned Renee today...No, she wasn't home sick from bad spring rolls (though I'm a bit worried about what I ate for dinner two hours ago). One of the doctors sprung a research proposal on her to edit. After this, she helped out with the photos and making sure none of us passed out.
As exhausted as we all were, I think we all bonded together knowing we were able to help some people in need. So, instead of heading home to pass out, it was time to go out for some beers and dinner. Plus, everyone was eagar to go to Hoi An to get fitted with some custom suits and dressess. As the girls and Tony tried on outfit after outfit...I drifted off to sleep sitting in a chair in the shop with a dog on the table stairing at me...well, now i'm exhausted and it's time for bed. Enjoy the phots.